I've been to Canterbury a few times, exploring different variations of the Pilgrims' Way, and, indeed back in
2017 the A Group rode there.
I thought it went rather well, but, what with one thing and another, we've never done it again...
Anyway, I still like the Pilgrims' Way, so on Tuesday I set off to ride it again. After the long dry spell I expected conditions to be perfect, which they were, and I hoped for some sunshine, which was less successful.
The route was pretty much the usual one, which I've generally refined over the years, and there have been a number of improvements to the cycleways that make up part of it. It's a combination of very quiet lanes, ancient trackway and some very nice cycle tracks. About sixty miles to Canterbury, and I did about ten more to get to The Dog, at Wingham, where I planned to spend the night.
I started the ride at the bottom of Titsey Hill, which is the first point at which I can pick up a relatively continuous Pilgrims' Way. Wayfarers will be familiar with this piece of road, which runs along the bottom of the North Downs, on the edge of the chalk. Its a 'sill road', classic Pilgrims' Way to my mind, level, firm going, at least when it's dry.
Although I ride this way fairly regularly, two changes stood out in the countryside I was passing through.
The first was the large number of vineyards all along the route. I remember the first few rows of vines being planted at Squerryes at the bottom of Titsey Hill, and I idly wondered then whether they would prosper. No need to worry about that now; the North Downs is one of the major wine-producing areas of England, and the foundation of some successful and profitable businesses.
What was also noticeable on the ride was the very large amount of wheat being grown - much more than I have ever seen before. I presume that it is a response to the Ukraine war, which has pushed up cereal prices. It seems to be thriving in the warm summer weather, and I wish the farmers every success.
I crossed the Medway at Peters Bridge, a new bridge which has an excellent cycleway connecting to routes to Rochester and Maidstone. As I understand it these cycleways were a condition of the planning permission to build new houses on the East bank, and very good they are.
Lunch was a bit of a problem. There are plenty of good pubs to serve the pilgrims, but I was getting along pretty quickly, so I was peckish before they opened. In the end I briefly left the Pilgrims Way at Lenham, and ate well at the Dog and Bear, an old favourite with a CTC Winged Wheel.
Steadily onwards after lunch, no great rush, and I was pleased to see that Tummy the Restful Monk was still keeping an eye on the track.
At Boughton Asaph I did a little dog-leg to Wye, which I knew from Audaxes in the area, to pick up the new Great Stour Trail to Canterbury. This is a very pleasant gravel cycle route, substantially traffic free with just a couple of short sections of quiet country lanes. Very nice indeed. Cycleway through Canterbury, and a continuation of the Great Stour Trail along the river to Fordwich, a pretty little village where kids were jumping from the bridge into the river.
A couple more miles along country lanes to Wingham, and there, just down from The Dog, was Maggie walking along the street to meet me. We had a spectacular medieval room, with high beams and stylish modern fittings, and a good dinner with a choice of local produce - and local wine, too.
Seventy one miles, just over 11mph, easy going on the Jolly Green Giant. I had put a range extender on, but could have managed without.
Bikepacking done right, as one of my sons said. Yes indeed.
Mark
