I've been wanting to do this ride for a long time. It's the longest - and the hardest - of the classic French long-distance 'Raids', going over the edge of the French Alps, through the Swiss Alps and then the Dolomites on the way from Thonon (near Geneva) to Trieste, on the Adriatic. The format is the same as all the others - it's organised by a local Audax Club - Thonon les Bains, in this case. You apply to the club for a 'carnet' and a route card, you get the 'carnet' stamped at the control points listed along the way, and they'll give you a medal if you succeed. It's 1180 km over 38 cols with 21,384 meters of climbing. Roughly Lands End to John o' Groats, but with rather more climbing. Well, a lot more.
The problem with the trip was getting van support. Baxter's had done it every few years until about 2008, but had then stopped, and for the last few years no company has done it at all. Obviously, you can set off with panniers and so on, but it would be a slow old ride, so I wasn't keen. Then, doing the Raid Alpine last year, I had a spot of luck. James Thompson, of Marmot Tours, said that he was planning to run the Raid Dolomites as a route this season. In the event it was so popular that he ran three trips. I got my carnet and booked a place.
So it was that on the 20th of August I stood by the lake in Thonon, carnet in my pocket, ready to go.
Marmot Tours weren't hanging about on this one - the trip was nine days from end to end, so we put the hammer down right from the beginning. 191 kms and over the 2000 meter Simplon Pass at the end of the run to get to our hotel for the first night. It was very hot on the Simplon, with some tedious (and quite dangerous) road works in the tunnels, but everyone made it in good time for dinner and the show was on the road.
I find it best to make an early start on these runs, to get as many miles in as I can in the cool of the day. The second day wasn't too bad - some climbing in the heat, ending at San Bernardino, but day three, going to St Moritz, was quite tough. Switzerland, then Italy, then back to Switzerland, with three big passes, the smallest of which, the Maloja, at 1815 meters I found the hardest. 30 kms up a hot valley followed by a big climb on steep hairpins. But it was followed by a blast along the lake to St Moritz and beers on the terrace of our hotel.
The next day was no easier, with four decent passes ending on the top of the Stelvio, where we spent the night. Thunder and hail in the late afternoon, which I missed by my 'do it early' policy. Not everyone did. Overnight it snowed.
In the morning, one of the vans went off early to check the road for ice (it was fine), and after another long and hard day we got to Selva Val Gardena in the Dolomites. 194 kms and a lot of climbing. Grinding up the Passo di Pinei in the late afternoon I was passed by a local woman racer, out for her evening training run. 'Salve', she said, a normal courtesy amongst cyclists. Then, taking in the situation and my Raid Alpine tag she said 'Courage'. Yes indeed. I made it in time for a beer before dinner; the last bikes were in after 2130, pitch dark and raining.
A couple of easier days - plenty of climbing, but not so long - were helpful to rest a bit. I deliberately took it easy, with decent cake and lunch stops. That left me in good shape for Day 7, which was very tough. Over the Passo di Giau, well known from the Giro, then up to the Refuge at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, again a Giro classic. The Giau was OK, and I got up it well, but the descent was wet, treacherous and freezing. I was very cold when I got to Cortina, and warmed up with hot chocolate and cream cake, before setting off up again to the Tre Cime. Another very hard climb, but I got up OK and in a decent time. A great lunch in the refuge then down again by the same road, with words of encouragement for some of the party who were still on the way up.
Although there was plenty of riding left, if you had got over the Tre Cime then you were set for Trieste. The run of the country was down, interspersed with climbs, of course, and the pace rose steadily. The last fifty miles were fast indeed, with 'Trieste Express' line-outs vying to be first into town. Under the town sign, champagne and pizza at the Bar California on the front, and that was that. Another Raid done, and great fun it was.
I know it's not about the bike, but most people paid a lot of attention to their mounts, as did I. The steed of choice was the lightest piece of carbon fibre you could find, with a good saddle and a reasonable spread of gears - you can't go too low as you won't be able to keep the speed up on the climbs. I took the Condor that I had made for the Alps last year. SRAM Rival Groupset, with the 'WiFli' Climbing Group, a Fizik Aliante carbon fibre saddle, Mavic SL wheels and Continental Grand Prix tyres. Spot on, and trouble free.
And if it's not about the bike, it is about the logistics. Marmot Tours are top at the long-distance Raiding game, with a well-established system of two custom vans carrying food, spares and clothing, good hotels and your bag in your room by the time you get there. Good people and good to deal with.
Mark
2 comments:
Great article. I read somewhere that to officially qualify as having completed this raid you need to have 6 stamps in the carnet. Does anyone know where these stamps are collected? I don't have the Carnet yet but have applied for it. Thanks
Can't offer a definitive answer, but when I rode in the Alps there were stamps and ink available in tiny cupboards at the top of each col for the rider to stamp their own carnet. At that time the carnet was available in newsagent type shops or cafes around the region - I don't remember for sure but I think we paid a few francs for it (loooong time ago).
Also many of the shops/cafes in these regions have stamps and will stamp your card if you ask.
Very few of these things are official as such, as most of these challenges are self-policed because they are only of interest to the tourist completing such "raids", and if you cheat the only person you cheat is yourself.
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