A newbie in the Alps

Apologies to those who have spent time on a bike in the Alps;  I write this to encourage those like me who have wondered “could I cope?”

Late in May I had my cycling first experience of the Alps with 5 days based in Aurel.  My companion (and guide) was a London/Fountaineau based friend Martin, an INSEAD prof, who spends at least one week each year in the mountains.  He knows Mont Ventoux and the environs rather well.

We made two ascents of the infamous Ventoux.  On day 1 we took the easy route from Sault.  The first leg up to Chalet Reynard at 1400m was cool and not difficult.  In the forest we were well sheltered from the NNW wind.  The second leg to the summit at 2000m was quite different; above the tree line there was no shelter from the wind that was either head on (manageable) or across the course (from time to time dangerous); Garmin reports an average 37kph windspeed.  It was chilly – I wore a merino base layer, fleece arm warmers, knee warmers and a gilet and did not break sweat.   We returned to Aurel via the descent to Malaucene; it twists and turns at varying gradients and this route probably offers the most demanding way to the summit. 

On day 3 we essayed the classic TdF ascent from Bedoin.  We saved a little by joining the route at Sainte Colombe which is a few gentle kms above the recognised beginning of the climb.  “Cheat” you may say but by then we had covered 32k with already 550m of ascent.  At 1015 when we left the charming roadside cafe at St Colombe it was clear that there were many strong riders out that day or perhaps there was a mass sugar rush provoking a collective early hammer and tongs approach to the climb.  We were more circumspect and for over an hour gently spun up the steady average 9% grade for 11k – 1000m of vertical gain to Chalet Reynard.  It was hot about 26 C in the shade of the forest and 30C otherwise; flies were bothersome; it was not a pleasant experience but that is not the purpose when going to MV. That was sufficient of the high ground for the day and we descended comfortably to Aurel.

Days 2, 4 and 5 were spent exploring the gorges and other areas.  This is Martin’s forte; somehow he picks good routes from a map designed for motorists and spurns route mapping sites and Garmin guidance.  Away from the drama of MV there is great cycling terrain with many cols offering 5-7% climbs with 500m of vertical gain. Lavender, bright yellow broom and cherry orchards were in in bloom.  Our unresearched  lunch stops were excellent and good vfm. 

In summary:

·      the first day with the hellish wind to the summit and over 2100m of climb was un baptême sans pareil - pleased to have done it and no doubt will do it again but…. 

·      we did not ride more than 100kms on any day but we climbed at least 1200m on every day - ca suffit pour les seniors. 

·       a great region for cyclists with good quality roads, light traffic loads and variable terrain, good local wines (AC Cotes de Ventoux)

·      MV ascents are doable for anyone with a decent bike, wide range of gears and reasonable fitness.  Prior to visiting the area I wondered if I would have the mental ability to stick at it and grind out the vertical gain but the reality is that there are many others on the route with the occasional scalp on offer and that alleviated the problem for me

·      descents are manageable – max grade we encountered was probably 13% and the norm is 7 or 8%.  The good road surfaces and moderate gradients allowed a relaxed touring experience on the downhill sections.

Auto biographical note to encourage waverers - I am 73 yrs old with 5 years experience, mostly in Surrey and Kent.  If I can do it ……