In 1812 passengers in the cheap seats on the London to Bath coach actually froze to death. So today's intended excursion through the historical novelties of the route is best appreciated from indoors.
The old route to Bath came out of London from the Bell Savage Inn on Fleet Street via Hyde Park, Kensington, Chiswick and Isleworth. The first stage for changing horses was Hounslow where there was stabling for over 2000 horses (300 coaches a day travelled the route in the 18th century). Fast coaches would "fly" from London to Bath in 3 days and the route would be interesting to cycle as its about 110 miles and the possibilities for cyclists to use the pretty Kennet and Avon at the Bath end would make up for the density of traffic at the London end. However I digress. Today's ride heads out of Walton, down to the river, under and over Walton Bridge, Shepperton, Littleton, Charlton, Ashford. At Charlton we pause to give The Harrow a quick glance. A gatehouse for Windsor ...A hunting lodge....probably just a fairly low status farmhouse or cottage but an important A frame building in English oak, beams handcarved, mortise joints can still be seen apparently, spaces between the frame filled with wattle and daub (willow and mud). The discovery of a cache of silver coins hidden beneath a door frame dates the building pre 1130. Calls itself the oldest pub in Middlesex with good reason. Back in 1852 it became a pub. No piped water or drainage, the water pump can still be seen outside the front door. Across Stanwell Moor, left at Vermeulens, right at the Anchor pub...under the underpass and loop through Horton. There is a gypsy graveyard here somewhere that Irene showed me once upon a time. Also the birthplace of Milton. A paradise lost indeed, as you cycle this section you get a feel that it must have been a busy farming area long ago.
A pause at the Ostrich Inn at Colnbrook, beams, crooked stairs, cobbled courtyard for all those coaches (must go back and have a meal) . Foundation stone laid in 1106 it stands opposite the 17 milestone from London. Originally named The Hospice but over the centuries corrupted to Ostrich.
Over 60 people murdered here over the centuries. Jarman, an enterprising landlord in the 17th century constructed a trapdoor in the floor of his best bedroom and carefully placed a hinged bedstead over it. The wealthiest guest were tucked up and when sound asleep he would tip them through the trapdoor into a vat of boiling liquid being tended by his wife in the room beneath. They were found out when the horse of a wealthy clothier Thomas Cole was found wandering the streets . A search ensued and the body of Thomas discovered in the Colnbrook. From here a short trot to lunch, aided by the network of footpaths that surround Harmondsworth, we enter by a path that follows the Duke of Northumberlands river (feeds the fountains in Bushy Park/Hampton Court?), past the monument to Barnes Wallis (the bouncing bomb) to the Five Bells. The barn is an outstanding example of medieval carpentry and all details are on their website. Suffice to say it is well worth a visit and I was disappointed when I reccied (having not looked at the website) that it was closed but opens after Easter and is English Heritage.
Boots on now and out to enjoy the snow. Steph x
3 comments:
Lovely write-up Steph. :-)
Wow! Love it.
Superb! The Sou'Wester is waiting for a regular column from you. 'From my armchair'.
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