At about quarter past ten on Friday I was back at Reading Station, ready for the next stage of my Coast to Coast adventure. There are several good routes out of Reading, and, in the summer, I would have chosen to follow the Kennet and Avon canal, but several people had warned me that it would be mucky at this time of year, so I chose a different route. This worked pretty well, but the path through Waterloo Meadows was wet and muddy, so I crossed over to the other side of the river at the next bridge, where I could see cyclists bowling along on a good surface.
This turned out to be an excellent cycle route, leading to the hi-tech business park south of the town, where every building was served by a good cycle path. The path was wide, well surfaced and obviously well used. Build it, and they will come ...
Passing the business park I took to quiet lanes for a few miles, picking up the Berkshire Cycleway at Grazeley. This is like the Surrey Cycleway that we use for the Tri-Vets - a signposted route along quiet, pretty lanes that joins together some attractive villages.
I passed south of Newbury, varied the route a little to avoid an ascent of Inkpen Hill, a classic which I have done before, and began to wonder about lunch. None of the pubs in the villages that I passed was open, indeed some looked pretty permanently shut. I was pretty confident that I would find something at Hungerford, when, a few miles short, I happened on the Downsgate, next to a cattle grid and, uh, a gate on to the Downs. It was bustling, with a cheerful rural crowd, talking of dogs and shooting and crops and tractors. Poppy, the dog, sat next to me, with begging eyes. One word from her owner, and she refused a chip. But she sat there until the last one was gone. I felt very welcome.
On through Hungerford, still served by the Great Western Railway, as it has been since 1862, and then along the Kennet towards Bedwyn. Plenty of water in the Kennet.
Crossing the county border I picked up the Wiltshire Cycleway, following it as far as the Savernake Forest, William the Conqueror's hunting ground.
Here I rode along the Grand Avenue, arrow straight, with a gravel surface. Fascinating place, with a sort of star pattern right in the middle, where a number of these straight roads meet.
Only a couple of miles from here to Marlborough, where I was very fortunate with my travel arrangements for the return journey. Maggie had very kindly agreed to drive down to meet me and so, to avoid the tedium of two drives in a day, I had booked us in to the Castle and Ball.
I chose the hotel because it was CTC's recommendation in the 1899 Handbook and Guide. I have found this to be very reliable, as if a hotelier has been in business for 120 years or longer he has probably got the hang of it by now. No Winged Wheel, and as far as I could tell from old photographs it has never had one. But a good place to stay.
This morning it was Market Day (Market: Tues and Sat. CTC, 1899). We had a potter around, and bought a Lardy Cake.
You don't often see them, these days. But, as the Polish chap serving at the stall said, 'people do eat them'. I guess he didn't...
Mark
2 comments:
When I first got married, a very long time ago, lardy cake was a regular treat.
… Just read the blog of your latest leg. … a great way to start my day on a cold and frosty morning!! Thanks for the interesting narrative and photos. My dad lives in Bristol and I have cycled back from there a couple of times so it brings back very enjoyable memories.
Post a Comment